January 16    #529                      Soufflé Secrets

            One of the most impressive and eye-catching dishes you can prepare for dinner is also regarded as one of the most difficult to make; and that would be the soufflé.  This egg based concoction (the word soufflé suggests “breath” in French)is cherished for its ability to rise up out of its dish dramatically, then fall in on itself pathetically.  As Harold Magee points out in his great book “On Food And Cooking”, that is just the nature of the beast.  If heated, it must rise.  If cooled, it must fall.

            All soufflés have this in common, whether savory or sweet:  they are made from a flavor base that is blended with stiff beaten egg whites.  Here are a few tips to help you pull of this impressive dish.

            1.  The flavor base is usually a rather thick affair, which makes it easier to support the featured ingredients.  Whatever they are, they need to either melt into the base, or be small enough so they will not sink to the bottom.

            2.  Many bases start with a flour and butter roux.  Do not let it over cook or it will darken and take on scorched flour flavors.  A lot of recipes thicken  the base with egg yolks alone and skip the flour.

            3.  When you separate the eggs and you’re not planning to use the yolks, try preparing a yolk based sauce that you can keep for a day or two.  A béarnaise is a good bet.

            4.  Use an electric beater for your egg whites and make sure you have a squeaky clean bowl to work in.  If you missed your workout you can use a hand powered whisk.   The indispensable ingredient for beating egg whites is cream of tartar, a mildly acidic white powder that gives structure.  Be sure to beat until the whites are stiff but still glossy, and form peaks.

            5.  Here is how to manage the most tricky step, blending the flavor base and the beaten egg whites.  Using a large flat spatula, mix about ¼ of the egg whites directly into the flavor base.  This will lighten up what is a thick mixture.  Then gently and patiently fold in the remaining egg whites, one third at a time.  Plop the egg whites onto the flavor base and cut straight down with your spatula.  Turn it and bring up unmixed batter from the bottom.  Work in a circular fashion.  Do not, under any circumstances, start stirring.  Just add the egg whites slowly until they are all gone and fully blended.  Try to go beyond simple “marbling” and fully incorporate the whites.  This will allow the whites to retain their air bubbles, which is crucial.

            6.  We believe that long baking in a low oven is best.  Try 40 minutes in a 325 oven.  Place the soufflé dish on a cookie sheet, then install in on the lowest rack in the oven.  This will allow it to cook from the bottom up and avoid the super-hot air in the top of the over, which could scorch the top crust.

            7.  Time everything so that you can serve the soufflé immediately.

                   Al’s Gorgonzola and Prosciutto Soufflé

                      A Radio Kitchen Original Recipe

3 tbs butter (plus more for greasing the dish)

3 tbs all-purpose flour

1 1/3 cup scalded milk, still warm

1 tsp dry mustard

tsp garlic powder

pinch of salt

4 egg yolks

4 oz. crumbled gorgonzola cheese

4 oz shredded  cheddar cheese

3 slices prosciutto, cut into small strips*

5 egg whites

½ heaping teaspoon cream of tartar

2 tbs grated parmesan cheese

*TIP:  lightly flour a cutting board when you are working with the prosciutto.  The ham is very sticky, and a light coating of flour makes it easy to handle, and dissolves in cooking.

 1.  Mel the butter in a 3 qt sauce pan over low heat.  Stir in the flour and whisk well.  Add the scalded milk slowly, whisking all the time until it is blended.  The result should be a smooth light tan batter.

2.  Add the mustard, garlic powder and salt, and then off heat gently add the egg yolks.  Stir well, then return the mixture to the low heat and stir about two minutes until it starts to bubble.

3.  Off heat, add the cheese and stir until it melts.  Then add the ham and stir until it is evenly distributed in the flavor base.

4.  In a thoroughly clean bowl, beat the five egg whites and cream of tartar until they are stiff, glossy and peaking.

5.  Take about ¼ of the egg whites and stir it gently into the flavor base to lighten its density.  Gently fold the remaining egg whites one third at a time until they are all fully incorporated into the batter.  Be patient and slow!

6.   Grease your soufflé dish with butter, sprinkle in the parmesan cheese and turn the dish so as to coat the bottom and sides.  Pour the batter gently into the dish, leaving about ¾ of an inch at the top.  Smooth the top and then place on a cookie sheet on the lowest rack in the pre-heated 325 oven.  Remove upper racks to give the soufflé a chance to rise unimpeded.  Bake for 40-45 minutes.  Monitor the baking occasionally toward the end to make sure the top crust is not scorching.  Serve immediately.

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