January 23   #530                       

Pâté and Terrines

            Rarely the featured dish in a menu, but often a superb first act, player, the pate (or mousse or terrine, as the case may be) is hard to beat for appetizer course.  The three terms are somewhat interchangeable, but do break down like this:  if it’s a chunky concoction, it’s a pâté; if it’s smooth and creamy, it’s a mousse; and if it has been cooked in a long narrow earthenware terrine, it takes that name.

            What we are talking about is a mélange of meat, fish, or vegetable pieces, assorted spices and flavorings and some sort of binder that is shaped into a loaf, cooked, and then sliced thin for serving.  Because the cross section of the pâté is its featured aspect, the careful placement of contrasting elements within the matrix (say, pistachios, hard boiled eggs or asparagus spears) can build up an attractive design.

            Meat pâtés usually feature pork scraps or some manner of liver.  Processing the meat to one degree or another, mixing in the flavorings and adding cream, soft cheese,   egg, gelatin or some other binder is the extent of the work.  Elaborations with crusts or wraps are also encountered.  Fish pâtés are almost universally based on pureed fish pieces built up with cream or soft cheese.  All-vegetable pâtés use chunks or pureed main ingredients, as desired.

            Whatever the recipe, the pâté is always tightly formed into its finished shape, and then baked, usually in a low slow oven.  It is not unusual to stand the cooking vessel in a bain marie, or a water bath to guarantee slow gentle cooking.  Often cooks will line the vessel with strips of bacon to add moisture and flavor.  Pâté en croute (pastry crust) can bring out the decorative artist in you, if you cut up shapes from leftover dough and then apply them to the crust.

Chicken Liver Paté

          A Radio Kitchen Original Recipe           

1 lbs. chicken liver cleaned of any connective tissue
2 Tablespoons chopped shallot

2 Tablespoons chopped garlic

1 teaspoon fresh Thyme
4 Tablespoons bacon fat (or butter)

lb. butter cut into small pieces and kept cold
3 oz. Kentucky Bourbon
Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet set over medium high heat, heat the bacon fat.  Add the shallot and garlic and cook until they start to brown on the edges. Add the chicken livers and thyme and cook just until the livers are medium (still pink in the center). Remove the pan from the flame and add the Bourbon.  Place the pan carefully back on the flame and ignite the alcohol.  Cook only until the flames have stopped. In a food processor fit with the chopping blade, process the livers in four or five batches. Each time add an equal amount of butter through the top of the food processor while it is running.  This will slowly incorporate the butter without causing it to separate. Combine all the batches together in a bowl and season to taste. Place the mixture either in a bowl, or a 24 oz. terrine mold lined with plastic wrap.  Cover tightly and refrigerate over night. Serve with toast and good mustard.

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