January 29            #632                            Polenta

            "Italian grits" is how many people think of polenta, and in truth they're not half wrong.  Whereas true grits are made from hominy (corn treated with lye), polenta is a simpler more direct application of ground corn meal.  And like grits, polenta is incredibly easy to "doctor" with any number of additional ingredients.  You can almost think of it as a blank canvas.
            Polentas come in roughly three styles:  creamy, firm cake, and fried.  Regardless of the end product, the polenta is one of the kitchen's natural supporting players.  Quality depends on two chief factors:  having good fresh corn meal and the flavor of the cooking liquid.  Water can be used, but it is a rather boring choice.  And as we say on Radio Kitchen, "water is the enemy of flavor".  Far better choices are the assorted broths that are available as well as less obvious choices like tomato juice, ciders and cream.
            A note of caution:  many cooks who have worked with polenta have learned the hard way how scalding hot it can get.  "Like yellow lava," one unfortunate said.  A word to the wise.
Chef Paul Dongarra, onwer of Dionysus' Kitchen catering (410-744-4300)
gave us this version of his beloved polenta.  This is a great Polenta recipe to serve on a cold night in the autumn or winter.  All of the ingredients relate to and are plentiful in those seasons.  The sweetness of the roasted winter squash, the mild bitterness of the rappini, along with the nutty earthiness of the mushrooms pair wonderfully with the flavor of the polenta.
Creamy Polenta with Winter Vegetables and a Mushroom Ragu

The Vegetables for the polenta

• 1 bunch of rappini coarsely chopped or any bitter vegetable: winter rape, kale, etc
• Approx 1 lb of hard squash-
• Tbsp. olive oil
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Peel and cube squash. Cut into 1/2” cubes.  Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place on parchment lined baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until tender and caramelized slightly.  Wash rappini and cut into 1/2” pieces.  Place them in boiling salted water and cook for 3-4 minutes or until tender.  I choose a pot that I can also cook the polenta in so I do not dirty two items.  Remove and place in an ice water bath.  This stops their cooking & also keeps it nice and bright green.

The Mushroom Ragu

• 1 Tbsp.  Unsalted Butter
• 1 Tbsp.  Extra Virgin Cold pressed Olive oil
• 1 medium onion chopped
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 cloves garlic minced
• 2 lbs chopped wild mushrooms (shitake, oyster and portabella works well)
• 1-Tbsp. thyme, chopped (any robust herb such as rosemary or sage works)
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup heavy cream (you can lighten this dish by using half and half or tomato puree)

Heat a frying pan and when hot add your olive oil and butter.  Add onion, salt, and pepper, and sauté over medium heat until translucent.  Add garlic and the mushrooms being careful not to burn.  Cook stirring occasionally until the mushrooms are very moist and soft.   Add wine and cook until most of the liquid is reduced.  Add the heavy cream,.  Reduce if needed.  The ragu should be very thick and chunky not runny.   Hot hold until the polenta is ready.

The Polenta

• 7 cups of water
• 1 Tbsp salt
• 1 2/3 cup coarse-grained yellow cornmeal
• 1/2 cup Parmesan Cheese grated
• 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf Italian Parsley

Boil the water and salt in the same pot that the rappini was blanched.   Under a medium high heat, add the polenta SLOWLY IN A THIN STREAM.  If you choose you can stir continuously for about 40-45 minutes at this higher temperature or you may stir for 2 minutes, reduce the heat to a very slow boil, cover, returning every 10 minutes to uncover and stir.  The polenta is finished when it pulls easily away from the side of the pot.  Fold in the rappini and squash and extra cheese and butter if you desire.  Plate the polenta spooning the mushroom ragu over top or create a well in it’s center that will hold the ragu.  Garnish with the cheese and chopped Italian parsley and /or sprigs of the herb used in the ragu.

AHEAD OF TIME NOTE: This is great for entertaining.  The rappini, squash, and the mushroom, onion and garlic sauté can be done up to 2 days before you serve the dish.  I place them separately in zip lock bags and refrigerate until needed.

Additional ideas for Polenta

• Allow to cool, slice then grill or fry.  Serve as a crouton in wild field green salad with autumn fruit, toasted nuts, blue cheese and a maple balsamic vinagrette.

• Served a small fried or grilled piece with shrimp scampi or oysters with spinach and ham for an antipasto or tapas dish

• Served a plain creamy polenta with braised meats such as chuck roast, pork shoulder, veal or lamb shank.  It also goes well with the rich flavors of duck, goose, or quail.  You can really use it anyplace you think a mashed potato would work and it pairs well with almost any pasta sauce.

• Other cheeses that pair well with polenta are fontina or  gorgonzola.  Grate or crumble and allow these to warm to room temperature for 4-6 hours before stirring into the polenta at the end of cooking.

• Look for tamale and/or grit recipes.  This will expand the number of recipes that you can look for to use this great ingredient!

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