9/4   #610                                            SAVORY COCONUT

Sometimes a single dish can launch an idea for one of our shows.  A few weeks ago Al was eating a side dish of rice laced with shredded coconut when it occurred to him, that one, this was a pretty tasty dish, and two, we had never talked about coconut as an element of savory cooking. 

We think it’s important to point out that savory cooking is the place for fresh home grated coconut, and definitely not the pre-packaged baker’s variety, which is sweetened.  And since many recipes call for something called coconut milk, it’s important to remember that the sweet water that comes out of a coconut when you open it is simply coconut water.  The milk can be easily made by hand, or you can buy 13.5 ounce cans in the grocery store.

Coconut is valuable in recipes that permit a certain amount of latitude in texture and aromatics.  A French pot au fer, or a German liver and kale soup may not be the ideal vehicles for coconut inclusion, but a Mexican salsa or a Cajun shrimp and rice dish very well could be.  Coconut adds an unmistakable tropical air to a dish, as well as texture and aromatics.  Our advice to the creative cook would be to listen to your instincts.

Now, here’s how to prepare coconut at home.  Select a good sloshy sounding coconut, with a lot of water.  It will be fresh.  At home, pierce at least two of the three “eyes” and drain the water.  Put the coconut in the oven at 325 degrees for about 15 minutes.  This will cause the inner meat to shrink away from the husk.  Remove and cool the coconut, and then rap it with a hammer all around its circumference until it cracks.  Remove the meat, which will prove out to be abut 4 cups when shredded.

You can use a vegetable peeler to peel off long graceful strips of coconut, or a simple box shredder (middle sized holes) to shred by hand.  Far easier is a food processor with a shredding blade.

To make coconut milk, place about 2 cups of shredded coconut into a blender and pour in enough boiling water to thoroughly soak it.  Blend to a thick puree, and then empty it into a sieve lined with cheese cloth or muslin.  Strain the liquid into a bowl, vigorously twisting the cloth to wring every last drop of the thick liquid.  Repeat the process, but collect the milk in a separate bowl.  The first pressing is called “coconut cream” and it is sometimes used differently than the product of a second pressing, which will be thinner.

For us westerners, a certain degree of caution is called for which cooking with coconut and coconut milk.  Few foods in the world are higher in cholesterol, so try not to make this a regular feature of your diet.  But here’s a delightful dish that features coconut milk.

Butternut Squash and Coconut Soup

A Radio Kitchen Original Recipe

2 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut up into 11/2 inch cubes.

safflower oil

1 sweet yellow onion chopped

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbs ground cardamom

1 tbs ground cumin

1 tsp ground fenugreek

1 tbs ground turmeric

½ tsp kosher salt

½ tsp ground black pepper

6 cups vegetable broth

1 can (13.5 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk

¼ cup shredded fresh unsweetened coconut

1 tbs brown sugar

2 tbs fresh chopped cilantro

shaved coconut meat for garnish

1.  Toss the squash with oil, and place on a cookie sheet to cook in a 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes.  Remove and cool when done.

2.  In a heavy skillet, sauté the onion and shallot in oil until tender and translucent.  Stir in all the spices until a paste is formed.

3.  Add the squash and vegetable broth to the skillet and cook for about 15 minutes.

4.  Pour the mixture into a food processor and puree until it is smooth.  Transfer back to a large sauce pan, and add the coconut milk, grated coconut and brown sugar.  Simmer for about 15 minutes over low heat.  Do not allow it to boil.

5.  Prior to serving, stir in the chopped cilantro, pour into bowls and garnish with the shaved coconut.

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