10/09   #615                                          SAFFRON

Saffron is well-known as the most expensive spice in the world.  It is made from the stigmas of a specific crocus flower, which are hand-harvested.  It takes tens of thousands to make a single pound of saffron, hence the price, which can range up to $45 an ounce (Golden Gate brand).
Saffron is renowned for its pungent aroma (warm hay, some say), its warm bitter taste, but above all its ability to impart a brilliant yellow color to food.  This coloring ability is measured, and is regarded as the index of saffron quality.  Any number above 190 is considered good quality.  A number above 250 gets into the premium end.
   Saffron comes to market in jars of the little “threads” or in a powdered form.  The powder is easier to work with, but can be cut with turmeric.  The threads can be untrimmed, still retaining the pale ends which have no flavor.  In either case, it is critical to remember that saffron is only water-soluble, not fat-soluble.  Thus the threads need to be steeped in warm water, possibly with a little alcohol, before the infusion is used in cooking.  It would be a total waste of saffron threads to toss a few in a sauté pan with, say, veal cooking in olive oil.

Risotto Milanese
A Classic Recipe

3 cups chicken stock or broth
1 cup dry white wine
2 medium sized cippolino onions, peeled and finely diced
1 large shallot, peeled and finely diced
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups short-grained Italian rice, like Arborio
1/3 cup fresh grated Parmesian-Reggiano cheese
4 or 5 saffron threads

1.  Combine the chicken stock and white wine in a sauce pan, and heat until it simmers.  In a large deep sauce pan, gently sauté the onions and shallots in the butter until they become tender. 
2.  Add rice, and stir over medium heat for about 2 minutes.  Begin adding the broth, a little at a time, stirring until it is absorbed each time.  Reduce heat if the broth begins to boil. Keep adding broth until the rice is cooked soft, and a creamy sauce begins to form.  Just as your last addition of broth is nearly absorbed, add the saffron, and stir gently.
3.  Add the grated cheese and stir.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Serve immediately.

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